Learning to ice climb in the Midwest.
Ice climbing is one of those sports that very few people know about, very few people know how to do, and fewer people know how to teach. So how do you learn? There are essentially three options.
1. Figure it out Yourself.
Even though this is not the safest way to learn to climb ice, it is still a viable solution. If you have no experience rock climbing, tree climbing or of advanced rope systems I do not recommend you “figure it out” on your own. Start by collecting some books on the subject. The bible of climbing “Freedom of the Hills” is a good start ($39.00) with many of the basics of ice, gear, technique, styles, and safety. There are many more ice climbing specific books out there and you would have to flip through them and choose the best one for what type of ice climbing you want to do in the location types that you’ll be at. Once you get an idea of the sport, you’ll have to train someone to go with you or at least how to double rope belay, etc. Then you’ll need to buy the gear. Ice axes should run around $200, boots $200 – $400 (x2 if your partner needs them), Crampons $100 – $300 (x2 partner) and ice screws $80 – $200. This is assuming you have harnesses, ropes, slings, helmets, googles, etc. Note: helmets and google are a must due to falling ice. If you get to this point you should then go to a small short ice climbing area and practice the techniques before getting any real vertical feet below you. Then take is slow, double/triple check everything and keep progressing as you go. For many obvious reasons this is not really the best way to learn to climb. First of all, if you don’t really “get into it” then your stuck with $1,000.00 or more in gear for a day or two each season. It also puts a lot of book work on your shoulders, which is not usually a good way to learn anyway. Lastly, it has major safety issues that could put you and your friend it serious danger.
2. Go with a Friend
The better solution is to get an experienced ice climber to take out for the day. Usually they can give you a good glimpse of what it’s all about. If your lucky they might even have a similar size foot so you wouldn’t have to buy any gear except for a harness and helmet/googles. The main thing is determining whether this person really knows what they are doing. Many ice climbers are occasional climbers that go with more experienced climbers when they go. So make sure your friend is the more experienced climber and not the occasional climber. Lastly, can your friend teach. I have been training ski and snowboard instructors for the last 12 years, I would rather take a lesson from a good teacher versus a good rider, any day. So, can your friend patiently teach you? If so, then you should have a great time, and you probably have a great friend as well.
3. Hire a Guide
This option has the advantage of diving into the sport with little time or money invested. You can see the whole picture before going out and buying all the paints and studying the strokes of the brush. Guides are also booth great climbers and excellent teachers so you can absorb a tremendous about of knowledge the first day. Trying out gear is nice so you know what you like before you buy. Of course, safety and ease of mind is probably the greatest asset to this path. If you are freaked out going by yourself or with an “aloof” friend, how much fun are you going to have? A good guide sets your mind at ease with the first handshake in the morning. Also, with a guide you don’t feel bad taking up their time as they teach you because that is what you have hired them to do. The guide is prepared and expecting to teach.
The best way to learn to ice climb is to use a combination of all three methods continuously. Hire a guide to start, then get some books, and find a friend that wants to climb with you. Then hire a guide again for advanced training, read more books, meet more experienced climbers. Then hire a guide for climbing K2, write a book, and become a guide yourself. Still hire guides, still read books, meet even more people… Have lots of fun. I run a guiding company, so I’m a little biased towards hire a guide, but I do hire professional guides for many things myself, from advanced teaching skills to music lessons. In any area of life, if you are serious about learning find those that are serious about teaching.
Todd Stowell
www.apexadventurealliance.com
(608) 434 – 3360
