With over 2,000 climbing routes on purple quartzite cliffs looming over the water 500 feet below, Devils Lake is the premier rock climbing destination of the Midwest. Records indicate that people have been climbing and training on these cliffs since the 1920’s. Now with the explosion of rock climbers throughout the U.S and world, Devils Lake State Park attracts an estimated 140,000 climbers every season. The climbing atmosphere at the Lake is much like it’s midwestern surroundings. People are eager to chit-chat, make new friends, give a belay, share a rope, or share a beer at the end of a good day.
Many of the hiking trails wind about bluffs just below or above many of the famous climbing routes providing easy access and mobility throughout the day. While certain areas can get crowded on Saturdays with climbers and spectators, thousands of other routes remain hidden within the deep Wisconsin woods. Sundays tend to be quieter even at the most popular climbing crags. Most of the cliffs are about 60 – 100 feet in height which is perfect top-rope climbing. Top-rope climbing is incredibly safe and therefore makes Devils lake a wonderful place for new and novice climbers to practice and learn. That said, Devils Lake is also home to some of the toughest climbs and many professional from around the world have come to test their skills. One of the climbs called Bagatelle looks like a 70 foot sheet of glass and has only ever been climbed by 3 people. Jason Houston was the last local legend to master it.
There are two bluffs that dominate the lake, the east and west bluffs. The east bluff provides the most options in one specific area and has a tremendous view down the valley to Lake Wisconsin. The West bluff has hundreds of pockets of climbing and provides a better view of Devils Lake itself. The less domineering bluff, the South bluff has a few climbs but keeps it’s real gems (the boulders) hidden from most as there are no maintained trails on this bluff. Along the railroad tracks on the East side there are a couple great climbing spots which allow for a swim on the hot days. There are so many endless options that one could spend a lifetime climbing at the lake, and several have done so.
Guides and Guide books can be found to get you around to the best spots. The Devils Lake Guide book by Sven Olof Swartling has been the classic and best guide book hands down. And of course, Apex Adventure Alliance is the oldest guiding company using local guides. Wildside is the local climbing shop in the town of Baraboo, and they can get you any gear you need, guide book, or guide contact, etc. Even if you are an experienced climber make sure to talk with the locals or get a guide as the ratings are off, and a little local advise will go a long way. If your coming with a group on a Saturday make sure they know of several places to climb in case the first place is already grouped out.
Devils Lake is worth visiting just for the hiking, swimming, and unforgettable camping, but if you really want the trip you’ll treasure for your whole life, then make sure to add in the rock climbing.
Hope to see you on the cliffs!
Todd Stowell
Apex Adventure Alliance
www.apexadventurealliance.com
(608) 434 – 3360
