The first time rock climbing at Devils Lake can be frustrating for the experienced climber as routes are not easily found or marked. If you plan on spending more than a day at the lake I would start by picking up a copy of The Devils Lake guide book by Sven Olof Swartling The next best option is The Minnesota and Wisconsin (Duo) Guide book.  Both books are sure to be found “used” online for cheap or stop in at Wildside (the local gear shop) and support the local scene by buying one there.  The Wildside guys are knowledgeable and can give you lots of advise as well.  This is not a route recommending article so check out books or websites to look route up route info. Know that the ratings are off, (Stiff)  most climbs are much, much harder than the traditional rating given to them.  Climbers that flash 5.11 can spend the whole day working on a Devils Lake 5.9.  I warn that this is not an exaggeration, so please top-rope climbs at Devils lake until you get a feel for the rating system.  So, that said, don’t come to the lake looking to keep score, come for fun and challenge and forget ratings.  99% of the climbs have a walk to top-rope set up so no leading is required.  It’s so easy to set up top-ropes and everyone is so eager to share a rope that the whole place works more like an outdoor climbing gym.
If you want to meet up with local climbers just park in the CCC parking lot early in the morning and strike up a conversation as the cars with climbing stickers roll in.   The CCC parking lot is a small lot used primarily by climbers and access some of the parks best climbs on the east bluff.  If your new to the lake I would not recommend the West Bluff on a Saturday as many of the crags are isolated and can be overrun by groups, which means you can spend a good chunk of your prime climbing time searching and hiking from spot to spot.  Other days of the week, the west bluff can be a haven for isolated crags, serenity, and breathtaking views.
There are no bolts or sport climbing at Devil Lake so be prepared to top-rope or lead.  Not many of the routes eat pro that well so it’s best to talk with locals before trading up some unknown route.  It’s purple quartzite which is found in only three places in the world, and it’s super slick and smooth.  Sloppers are almost non-existent.  Little crimpy ledges will become your best friends. The locals that climb here all the time are tough as nails (but very friendly).  Towards the south end of the park, there is a sandstone bluff (Old Sandstone Area) which provides some variety to the climbing scene and has some classics definitely worth checking out.
If you can get a local to take you bouldering on the South bluff, surely take advantage of it.  Very hard to find, but excellent bouldering pockets on the south bluff make for a great raining day exploration.  Do hike with your pad as you’ll surely want to climb even if it is raining.
Camping can be hard to get at Devils Lake, but they do have several non-reservable sites that usually don’t get filled up until Thursday or Friday each week.  So if you can arrive on a Monday or Tuesday you’ll most likely be in luck.  Green Valley campground has been my camp spot for years, but you have to be recommended by someone in order to camp at this very beautiful farm setting.  Bring a flower or tree if you want to show up and try to get a site, they love the barter system.  Wheelers Campground is also very close to the Park and even sells some climbing gear.  Cute Mom and Pop hotels dot the roadside into the town of Baraboo and can go for very reasonable rates.  Check out the Willow Tree hotel, or Nordic Pines.
The place for beer and burger after a day of climbing is surely Hooty’s Sports Bar, ask for fried green beans instead of french fries.  Spotted Cow is the local favorite micro-brew, and it’s very good.
As mentioned before, it’s Wisconsin, so expect to make new friends at the crag and please partake in our very friendly rope sharing atmosphere.  Hope to see you out there.
Todd Stowell
Apex Adventure Alliance
(608) 434 – 3360
www.apexadventurealliance.com